Before industrial revolution- hand woven cloth- hand weavers and hand spinners, spinners restricted supply
Advancement of equipment in revolution, transformed textiles industry, changed from being a home craft to factory work for artists, demand and supply increased.
Hand weavers still exist but mainly automated looms, most common in industry are dobby power looms and jacquard looms.
Yarn selection- characteristics determine how finished fabric performs for purpose- thick or thin, how it is spun, how the fibre is made etc
Amount of warp- calculation of how much warp needed to create a piece of specific size, based on thickness, width, length, density.
Most labour is setting up loom, must be accurate for the weave to be successful- production of weave expensive as setting up most of cost, not suitable for sample runs- large minimums.
Darners hired in mills for quality control, if flaw in warp then remove and re-darn new one, usually a large sample so takes a while.
Fabric finishers- dyeing, washing, pressing, steaming etc
Outsource to CHINA and INDIA- before many places well known for spinning and weaving, only remains are the highest quality and skills- alike to MULBERRY leather still producing bags in England due to high quality
KNIT- loops- WEAVE weft and warp
Knit- specialist to shape and finish pieces but can start knitting as soon as have yarn
Weave- most on the setting up but easier to cut and sew.
SECOND WEEK OF WEAVE- really struggled to understand the techniques being shown and how they work. I decided to do some extra research to get ideas and inspiration for my weave as very unsure of how to manufacture a piece that is relevant to my work.
IDEAS TAKEN FROM PAST WORK:
- Use of colours from vat dyeing in PRINT- combination of mustard, blues and a touch of red
- Fraying from my knit sample and the pieces then created from this in STITCH
- The holes created by the burning and the effect of this on the individual fabric, the melting outer edge- DRAWINGS done from these objects- CIRCULAR negative space within object.
- Twisting of yarn around itself and the looping of knit samples- evidenced in DRAWING
TRANSLATED INTO WEAVE IDEAS:
- Gradient of colour within weave to integrate the yellow and blue in the same way my two tone fabric has a different warp and weft colour thread.
2. Tassels can be created on weave pieces by looping yarn through the warp threads. This however is used quite a lot. Could fray the piece of purpose after completion, ravel it on the edges or pull threads out like industry do when faulty.
3. Circular design or pattern generated on weave piece or NEGATIVE space created in same shape to indicate lack of fabric in this area. Could also burn piece after, destruction of generated object in same way I destructed others weaves.
4. Twist design- although already attempted this and it created an aztec like pattern which was not wanted. However, if done with a thicker yarn, the design will be increased in size and this may make the pattern more effective. I could also twist different wefts together before weaving them through the warp to integrate the colours and imply the same process as the spinning of yarn (evident in my knit sample).